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Container Gardening
 

Nice Container Arrangement


Window Boxes, Etc.


The Plant Broker is offering a new service just in time for your fall garden design:


 Window Box and Container Design, Installation and Service


Everyone loves to see bright cheery window boxes which provide great "curb appeal".   In some situations window boxes and container gardens is the only way folks can garden due to limited space or physical health limitations.  If this is your situation would you like to be the one everyone praises about how different your window boxes and containers are?  Then contact the Plant Broker at theplantbroker@comcast.net to start the process of giving your window boxes and container gardens a complete makeover.   Below is what the service offers:



  • a basic sketched design of the window box plan (or container planting plan)

  • procurement of window boxes and necessary materials to mount them(if you do not have window boxes)

  • appropriate fresh soil for window boxes or containers (potting soil with additives for maximum water retention)

  • seasonal plants will be utilized in the design for most seasons


    • Spring -- Pansies or Icicle Pansies

    • Summer -- any multitude of annuals, biennials and short-lived perennials -- flowering, grasses, vines, and tropical foliage

    • Fall -- Chrysanthemums and Asters mixed with other more-hardy plants

    • Winter -- (Special Orders Only) Flowering Kale.  Special Camellias will survive in protected areas and in heavy containers in Zone  6A and South

If you are interested email the Plant Broker at   theplantbroker@comcast.net for an appointment.  I will be ordering plant for the Fall/Winter plantings by the end of August 2008.  Contact me soon or the prices will be higher after September 15th.


Container Gardening in the City


 


 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 
Bigger Really Is Better: Tips on Container and WindowBox Gardening


Everyone loves to have beautiful containers of plants around their home and garden and it seems like we all know someone who just has a knack for having great containers.  Years of trial and error and access to people with great knowledge in container gardening have taught me a few tricks of the trade.  One of the things I love about gardeners is their willingness to share ideas, knowledge, and more often than not plants with their fellow gardeners.  In that tradition, here are my tips to getting great containers.


You probably already know the typical things. Like, plant sun plants with sun plants and shade plants with shade plants.  Choose plants that have similar water needs (no cacti with those water plants.)  Choose something that spills over the edge and something with height and something that fills in the middle ground.    But do you know the other little things you can do to help your planters thrive?


Here are my tips for creating and maintaining great containers.


Container Gardens



Pots:  Anything that can hold soil and has a drainage hole can be used as a pot.  However, small pots will need to be watered more often.  When the temperatures start reaching 97 in the shade you may need to water a small pot more than once a day. 


If you want easy, large pots are better.  Large pots have larger soil volume so the plants won’t need to be watered as often.  More soil also means your plants can grow a bigger root system.  Plants with lots of roots tend to be healthy, happy plants.


What kind of material your pot is made out of will also impact how quickly the soil in your pot dries.  Clay pots and cocoa fiber/moss lined pots will dry out more quickly than plastic or glazed pottery.  Plastic and glazed pots are slower to dry because water doesn’t evaporate through the sides of the pot.


Water:  The basic tips are water your pot when the top of the soil is dry to the touch.  Water until some water comes out of the drainage whole in the bottom of the pot.  Be careful not to over water when the temperatures are cool.  Keeping soil too wet will cause disease problems.  Large pots are especially vulnerable to staying too wet because of their large soil volume, the thing that works for you in hot weather makes things a bit more difficult in cooler weather.


Soil:  Be sure to use a good, light potting medium.  Potting soil is formulated to have a good ratio of water holding capacity and air space (roots need air space to be happy).  Fill the pot completely with soil, leaving some space between the top of the soil and the top of the pot (this is sometimes referred to as head space).  In large pots you can leave up to 2 inches in smaller pots you might only leave ½ an inch.  I realize that filling large pots with potting soil can be a bit pricey, however, that additional soil volume will really help give your plants a boost.  The photo below shows roots throughout the soil of this 18" diameter planter.  The photo was taken in October, the planter was planted in May.  A plant with many roots is a happy plant.



 





When adding soil to your pot, just pour or scoop it into the pot.  Do not pat the soil down, this is unnecessary and will actually negatively affect your plants.  Once you fill the pot simply wet it down, gently with water to settle the soil and add a bit more if necessary (or if you fill you pot to the top, by the time you plant and then water the plants in, the soil should settle just enough to give you the head space you need).



Do you really need to replace all of the soil every year?  It is best to replace all of the soil every year but if last years plants were healthy and you have a very large pot you can replace the top half of the soil with new and leave the bottom half for one more year.  Be sure to replace all of your soil at least every other year.  If your plants had disease problems the year before it is best to completely replace the soil.


 


Fertilizer:  Fertilizer is essential for having the best possible containers of plants.  The easiest way to provide fertilizer to your plants is to incorporate a slow release fertilizer into the soil when you fill your pot.  If you buy an already planted container or if you forgot to incorporate the fertilizer you can top-dress (spread the fertilizer on top of the soil) with it.  Slow-release or controlled release fertilizers will generally provide nutrition for 2 to 3 months.


As your planter gets larger and time goes on you will probably want to augment the slow release fertilizer with regular applications of a water-soluble fertilizer.  Six weeks to 2 months after planting I usually start using a water-soluble fertilizer once every week or so.


You can also skip the slow-release fertilizer and use a traditional water-soluble fertilizer from the beginning.  Generally you would apply a water-soluble fertilizer every week or every other week while watering your container.  Read the directions on your fertilizer package for specific application instructions.


Your containers will likely grow along doing reasonably well without fertilizer but to maximize their potential you should fertilize regularly. 


Number of PlantsThere are two basic ways to plant a combination.  The traditional planting and the “living plant arrangement.”  Traditional planting is when you allow enough room between plants that the planter looks full after 2 to 3 weeks of additional growth.  Generally I would use 3 or maybe 4 plants in 10 or 12 inch planters.  Five to 7 plants in an 16 to 20 inch planter and so on. 


With the traditional planting you need to have a bit of patience to get a completely full planter.  However, the plants will be healthier.  Fewer plants mean better root growth and thus healthier plants.  Less crowded containers also have better air flow around the plants.  Better air flow will help foliage dry faster which will decrease disease. 


The living plant arrangement is when you place as many plants as possible into each planter.  This allows the planter to look full immediately after planting.  However, since living flower arrangements are crowded they tend not to have as much longevity and often have greater disease problems.  Living flower arrangements can be really useful if you need to have a high impact container immediately, say for a party the weekend you are planting.


One last little tip, if one plant starts to take over a planter feel free to trim it back to give the other plants room to grow.  On the other hand, if you are like me, you can let your plants duke it out, a veritable microcosm of Darwin’s survival of the fittest.



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